#MOOSE FARKLE FULL#
Much more likely is smashing your knuckles against trees without guards so I'm happy to accept the danger to my wrists and run full wraps. It's an uncommon and unlikely accident but there are always the edge cases and freak occurances. The lower the aluminum part of the guard is the harder it would be for your hands to get under them if you pitch forward. The forward motion can (rather unlikely) push your hands past the levers but under the protective aluminum bar, then as the rest of you goes over the top your hands may get stuck between the levers and the guard. In the rare cases when you go over the bars with force the lower the guards are the more rare it is to break em. I would have to tighten up the top as much as I could before moving into position, and then only use the bottom bolt to finalize the clampage. I hadn’t considered a best angle for the sake of safety, but I am interested to know why a downward angle would lead to less wrist breakage.īeyond just the downward angle required, I would still not have access to the top clamp bolt. What I was hoping for is a similar fit to the plane of the levers, straight forwardish. Mine have the general appearance of being closer to 25 minutes to the hour than twenty minutes. If someone was able to get them mounted straight, without angling anything down or up and without any cutting or fabrication, I’d love to see that install.Ģ:30 AM - Jun 16I have no idea how far you like your handguards angled down.īut I do know that it is recommended by more experienced than me to angle handguards well down to defend against broken wrists. I’ve read posts about people finagling them on while giving up what some would consider an ideal fit. I certainly could have got them to “work,” but the fit would not have been satisfactory to me. If you're using stock bars, then I can't speak with experience there. But the cavate is that I installed them with oversized handle bars. And can 100% confirm that they cleared my stock levers. I purchased the DR650 Barkbuster kit from ProCycle. Not just the universal fit skeleton Barkbusters. And If I remember correctly what Jeff said, the DR650 Barkbusters kit specifically. Shortening each handlebar by about 1” might be just the ticket, but that’s was a bridge to far for me to really consider the possibility.ġ:20 AM - Jun 16Far as I know, you "should" be able to get the moose kit with the procycle extenders to work, without having to do any fabrication or modification work yourself.īut to answer your question, the "plug and play" or "turn key solution" crash bars kit for the DR is the Barkbusters. Removing the spacer made the clamp fit more reasonable, but then I had more lever interference. There was no way to get the clamp bolted to the guard without having the clamp jammed into the cross bar and pointed at an unacceptably low angle, and I still only had access to one clamp bolt. I did fiddle with the controls, but my main problem was the handlebar cross brace.
I use Tusk d-flex pros and, while they fit fine and clear my OEM levers, it did require a little swearing to get it right. Have you tried nudging your controls inboard just a tad? That might give clearance.
I think all of the kits are a little fiddly. I simply could not find an acceptable mounting solution that didn’t require fabricating some sort of connector between the guard and the bar clamp, and the ball ends still touched the guards, even with the extenders.
#MOOSE FARKLE PC#
3:15 AM - Jun 15My first farkle attempt proved to be a dismal failure: Moose hand guards with PC extenders.
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